hospital

WOOD CUTTING
½" Plywood.	TOP	CUT 1 @ 16" X 5¾"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
½" Plywood.	SIDES	CUT 2 @ 16" X 6"	These two pieces will need a grove cut in each piece to take the glass. Mark back from the front edge an 1/8" in. and then cut a grove 3/16" wide & ¼" deep
½" Plywood.	BOTTOM	CUT 1 @ 16" X 6"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
½" Plywood.	FRONT	CUT 1 @ 16" X 5"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
¼" Plywood.	BACK	CUT 1 @ 16" X 17"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
Key for letters in assembly. A&B, Sides. C, Bottom. D, Top. E, Front. F, Floor

LET'S ASSEMBLE IT, USING TEXT & PHOTO'S TO HELP!
Lets do the two side bits first as these are fiddly These two sides are A, & B, The two side pieces you will need to cut a grove in each piece so the glass can slide up and down. Mark back from the front edge a 1/8" on both pieces. And then Cut a grove 3/16" wide, along the entire length depending on how thick the glass is you will be using, and ¼" deep. See photo for some guides. I promise this is the only tricky part of the whole project!
Take the two sides (A&B) nail and wood-glue them to the back panel ¼". Along the 16" edge just make sure the two groves are facing each other and are at the front of the box. Now take the top panel (D) insert it between the two side panels (A&B) it should fit just back from the groves on the sides (see photo 1 below) Glue and nail. Take the bottom panel (C) and like the top panel insert between the sides glue and nail. Now take the front panel (E) and nail & Glue in place, in-between the sides and on top of the bottom panel see photo.
	Photo 2 is showing the front panel nailed in place. It should cover the grove on the side panel to stop the glass sheet from travailing any further. If you cut your grove an 1/8" in from the front it should be a perfect fit. So far so good!
	Here is a view from the Front & back so you can see how it should be looking by now. Basically you now have the finished carcass of the hospital cage. All we have to do now is put the finishing touches to it. Let's move on!

The Floor
When you cut you wire mesh make sure it fits easily but not tight fitting a you will need to lift this in and out for cleaning and changing the bulb. As you can see on the photo the plywood floor is centered on the wire so there is a mesh opening each side for the hot air to escape. The floor also stops water and bird droppings from hitting the hot light bulb also the bird can land on the floor with out getting burnt, plus it stops the glare of the light as well.
This is the floor now nailed to the wire mesh to keep it in place. Note I have placed a piece of kitchen foil between the mesh and the floor to stop the heat from the light bulb from burning the wood. The far photo is showing how the mesh is fitting just in side the box
Now the floor is made and nailed together we need to measure the thickness of the floor. My floor is 9/16" thick. So the floor lays flush with the top front ( E ) we need to mark a line around the inside of the box 9/16" deep from the top of the front panel all around. From that line we then glue the ¼" x ¼" Soft wood to form a ledge for the floor to sit on loosely so it can be lifted out. See photos
Now we need to put the light bulb in. first find the center of the box, and that's where the center of the light bulb should be. If you use an angled light bulb holder like me the fitting will be off center to make the bulb stand in the center. I put the bulb in to make marking out easier. Now you have the center, we also want the bulb to be half way from the floor of the box and the wire floor. Wire the bulb holder up with the electric wire and then screw the holder in place. Now drill a hole where you want the electric wire to exit the box and thread the wire through, add the plug with the correct fuse. If you wish you can line the floor and sides up to the ledge with kitchen foil.

The finishing touches
Make a door in the side of the box by using a jig saw. This is for putting the bird in and for changing seed and water. Mark back from the front edge 1" and 3½" from the top. The door itself is 5½" high x 4" wide. Using the three inch butt hinge, screw it on the back edge not the front edge because of the groove for the glass. Add a fastening so the door can be locked when in use.
Now for the ventilation. From the top of the box make a mark 1" down on each side of the box (A&B) and draw a line across the side so we can drill ½" holes along the line. Keeping well away from the front edge so as not to drill through the groove for the glass
Now the perches. Using the ½"x ½" softwood cut two pieces 5½" and set these at the height you want. I have mine at 5" off the floor and 3½" from the sides. Drill a hole through the back of the box and screw the perches in from the back, just put a bit of glue on the edge of the perch before screwing them in.
Finely take the hospital cage to the glass merchants and get him to cut the glass so it fits in the grooves and slides up and down easily. Important have the glass cut so it sticks up an 1" from the top so you can easily got hold of it for lifting. If you put a strip of self adhesive draft excluder along the top edge of the front panel ( E ) it seals the glass pane when sitting on the wood, keeping the heat in.
You can now paint or varnish the hospital cage. It is best to create a seal this way so it can be cleaned, disinfected and wiped dry. For hygiene reasons. Not only that it looks good as well.
Just a foot note here Looking at this project may sound like a big complicated job but it's not. When you have the wood cut you are over half way there, When you have saved your first bird using the Hospital cage you will be so pleased. Make one now and be prepared its to late when you have a sick bird. An important item in any bird keepers room. E-mail me if you get stuck ( Click here )

How to use and setup your Hospital Cage

A hospital cage is an important part of a bird keeper's bird room. It does not cost a lot to make one or you can buy them from pet shops or mail order.
Setting up the hospital cage before you get a sick bird pays. All you then have to do is put the bird in and switch on. If a sick bird is given some warmth straight away there is a very good chance it will survive. In some cases warmth alone is sufficient to cure a sick bird.
The right temperature for a hospital cage is between 27° & 30° Celsius that is approximately 90° Fahrenheit.

SETTING UP YOUR HOMEMADE HOSPITAL CAGE. See Up-Date 25/10/07 up-date

1. While you are setting up the H/cage, (Do Not Put A Bird Inside)

2. Put a 40w light bulb in the holder and turn the light on,

3. Put the wire floor back in and put a good thermometer inside the cage slide the glass panel down shut.

4. Make sure all six holes are open on the sides of the H/cage

5. Because the H/cage will be cold and a bit damp from building it. Leave it running for a good three quarters of an hour to give you a more accurate reading on the thermometer.

6. If the temperature inside goes over 27° & 30° Celsius that is approximately 90° Fahrenheit. Then use a smaller wattage bulb.

7. If the temperature does not get up to 27° & 30° Celsius that is approximately 90° Fahrenheit. Then start closing one hole at a time on the sides of the H/cage. Start with one hole closed and leave for ten minutes if the temperature is still not right then repeat the procedure until you can maintain the correct temperature.

8. Now the H/cage is ready. Switch the hospital cage off, this one off setup procedure has now been done. When you get a sick bird just put it in and switch on.
(Do keep an eye on the temperature when in use)

Useful Tips

Put the sick bird in the hospital cage, but do not turn the heating on. Put the bird in the cold hospital cage and then switch the heat on so that the sick bird is brought up to temperature slowly. If the cage is brought up to a high temperature first, the bird will become very distressed, any sudden change in temperature should be avoided.

After you have treated the bird in the hospital cage, gradually reduce the temperature in the cage to room temperature, then transfer the bird to another cage for a few days. I also give the bird a good tonic seed to help get it back in condition. Observe the bird during that time and if you are satisfied it has recovered, then transfer it back to the main aviary, and observe it over the next few days to be a 100% sure.

It's very important to clean and disinfect the hospital cage after each time you use it. A couple of important points! When using a hospital cage. Always have plenty of water available at all times, so the bird does not dehydrate in the warm temperature and have seed available. Always ensure the ventilation is slightly open to allow hot air to escape and let in some fresh air as well. Have a good thermometer inside the cage to make sure the temperature is not getting too hot.

If you would like a free print out of these Instructions and have Microsoft Word on your computer
then Click Here

His e-mail to me
Hi!
Just thought I would drop you a line and say, Thanks, for the plans. I built your cage this weekend and it works just fine. The temperature says a nice 91 degrees. The only changes I made from your plans were these;

a. I have 6 - 1/2" holes on each side of the cage, 3 up and 3 down, for
better air flow
b. I added a sliding door rather than a hinge. I have had better luck
with this type of door, fewer finches get away from me.
c. Added a handle to the top and felt pads to the bottom. The Red Cross on the front was a nice touch my wife thought of for the hospital.
Couple of photos attached.
Thanks again.
Tim Porter.

MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED FOR THIS PROJECT
WOOD	½" Plywood. ¼" Plywood. ¼" x ¼" Soft wood. ½" x ½" soft wood.
HARDWARE	1, Length of three core electric wire. 1, Light fitting. 1, Electric plug. 1, Small piece of ¼" x ¼" wire mesh. 1, 3" Butt hinge. A piece of glass or Perspex. 1, Small piece of adhesive sponge draft excluder. 1, Piece of kitchen silver paper. 1, Thermometer. 1, Seed pot. 1, Water pot. 1, Pot of Wood-Glue,

WOOD CUTTING FOR INTERIOR WOODWORK
½" Plywood.	FLOOR	CUT 1 @ 12"x 5½"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
¼" x ¼" wire mesh.	MESH	CUT 1 @ 15 7/8" x 5½"	file sharp edges down
¼" x ¼" Soft wood.	LEDGE	CUT 2 @ 5½"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
¼" x ¼" Soft wood.	LEDGE	CUT 2 @ 15¼"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper
½" x ½" soft wood.	PERCHES	CUT 2 @ 5½"	Rub down all the edges with sandpaper